Nescafe Sunrise or Nescafe Classic

Berlin : Much better than cold coffee

The home front forms in the summer. Between worrying about loved ones who have been drawn into the distance and envy of travelers, on the other hand, it dawns on those who stayed at home that tourism is just the arduous excursion into a level of comfort that can easily be created within your own four walls. for example with Frappé as an accompaniment. Around the Mediterranean Sea, it means cold coffee with foam. Shaken together from instant powder, water and ice cubes and garnished with plenty of sugar and canned milk, it enhances lazing around between sun milk and sunset. It invigorates immensely - provided a decent extract is used.

As with all foods that the monthly test round has focused on so far, a closer look reveals an enormous gradient in the soluble coffee powder. Two methods of production are common: while spray drying solidifies the brewed coffee into powder in a stream of hot air, the much more expensive shock freezing process achieves its goal in the vacuum container. One could almost speak of a residual value, because in both cases a valuable basic product is transformed in an opaque way into a substrate that is later revived in the household.

The bar was high in Sarah Wiener's bistro in Hamburger Bahnhof. Not only because the air was filled with the scent of fresh espresso, but also because of the resolute principal who has little use for industrially produced luxury foods. The dusty, meaningless granulate from “Bremer Stolz: Der Feine” was also able to consolidate their attitude towards dogma. The product sold at Discounter Plus turned out to be a sour mélange in the cup, like malt and tar, the bitterness of which only comes from the penny offer “Contal Gold” and the charcoal “yes! Gold ”was surpassed by Rewe. “As if you were licking a freshly leveled road,” said one jury member in consternation and then felt relief when the mild, acidic “Granarom Gold 100% Arabica” from Lidl only appeared in a shade of ash. It evaporates in hot milk, leaving only the brown color.

It is similar with the "idea coffee gold express". In the raw state there is little to offer the nose; Enjoyed from the cup, you understand why Haus Darboven is so proud of its stomach-friendliness: nothing happens and a shot of milk is the death knell. At the same time, a dissonance can be made out that reminds men, at least, of the smell of a hot Märklin locomotive. “Jacobs Cronat Gold” frames its “mild pleasure” with strong acidity that stings the nose like vinegar essence when dry. With brisk locomotion that is not tied to rails, “Nescafé Gold” has it: After the smell of the anthill and dry forest floor has disappeared, warm rubber tires come to mind. Even if the inventors of instant coffee are no longer allowed to claim to have the Formula One of the industry, a reasonably real coffee taste, which skilfully curves around acidity and bitterness, only sets in with the second cup - an interesting habituation effect. Shaken with the frappé, it loses its conciseness and is inferior to the famous "Classic" from the same manufacturer.

When they tried the variant produced for the Greek market, the group actually believed they could smell the scent of a pine forest on a summer day in the south; the coarser German, on the other hand, was hardly able to arouse sentimental feelings. In the nose it unfolds the force of several servings at once. It can hardly be tamed by milk and sugar. At this point it becomes clear that mass production washes out the grist much more intensively than can ever be the case with filter coffee. This actually worrying fact has a positive effect on frappé, especially when vanilla ice cream is used instead of sugar. Because then the contrast cannot be great, not sharp enough.

The “Gepa Café Benita” appears in the style of an old-fashioned mocha, which is traded outside the world market and on top of that moves beyond the taste dictates of the end consumer. Unexpectedly, the powerful German version comes from the health food store. "Alberts Supremo" combines chocolate mocha with filter coffee like from a thermos, and it won more respect in the test round than the "Davidoff Café", which is only spectacular in terms of price, which is made at Tchibo, or the somewhat thin "Feine Milde" the same house. The most that could be mentioned is what flows out of glass shaped into a cigar stub: the grainy, pea-like flavor of unroasted beans, which shows how much coffee remains a herbal product - despite all the transformation.

The espresso experts trust in a lengthy roasting process, during which the perception of the vegetable origin shifts in favor of a strong roasted note. The risk is that too much roasting will turn into a barbecue flavor. The Bolognese instant mix from “Poccino” from KaDeWe, which has a considerable selection in this segment, makes little of its espresso origins. At first the jurors smelled a lot of cocoa, but shortly afterwards they were faced with more perfumed malt. It was little different from the crisis coffee Caro, which children feel jittery about. “Nescafé Espresso” does a better job, but is nevertheless overly concerned about its Italianity: after all, in Italy at most every second coffee tastes good.

As if to counter this knowledge, the Genoese mixture “Cellini” from the KaDeWe shows that the jury's ideas can actually be fulfilled. The finely powdered black extract transports its fragrance into the cup, where it adds the taste of a mocha praline. The frappé is suitable not only because of its quick solubility, but above all because of its harmonious combination with milk. It is robbed of its stubborn breadth, while the coffee is filtered a second time, so to speak, and loses its bitter notes in the process.

It's true: coffee remains a phenomenon that smells far better than it tastes. There are many who, as adolescents, were repeatedly enchanted when passing through a Tchibo or Eduscho branch - and then deeply disappointed after the first sip. It is possible that the black drink draws its aura from precisely that discrepancy that is relentlessly repeated in all fields of existence. In any case, it cannot be explained with aspects of enjoyment alone. More interestingly, coffee is the only way adults consume milk. At this point only very few test subjects were able to convince, but they did so with flying colors.

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